Linton Family Australian Adventure: Karajini ......just GORGEous

What's that smell? A chorus that would sound through the car as we all held our nose. The stench of dead cattle, a result of road kill, able to be smelt long before the sight of the carcass, was almost enough to dry retch. The sheer size of these beasts let alone the size of their horns would write off a car. After passing at least 10 cattle and driving 535km we reached Karijini National Park. As we signed in and paid our fees the camp host noticed our name and said "message here for you - friends at Kangaroo camp." Thinking the Backsons had left we wondered who it might be. As we drove into our campsite (Kangaroo 43) it was the Backsons, extending their stay by a night.

By the time we had unpacked the caravan floor became a deep shade of red. The fine red dust sticking to everything, providing some artistic fun for Abbey. Sara had warned us that the nights were bitterly cold, something we had become unaccustomed too. Sure enough by about 7pm we were all scrounging in the bottom of our bags for track suit pants and jumpers, shivering ourselves to sleep in the less than 10 degree night. A vast difference to the 18-20 degree nights we had enjoyed for the past few months.

Eager to explore the gorges Karijini is famous for, we packed a picnic lunch and headed out to Weano (Weiner if you ask Zach) Gorge 50km away. We stopped in at the Information Bureau and learnt about the Aboriginal tribes from the area and their philosophies on mining - an interesting read. The kids participated in a junior ranger program and learnt about the wildlife, duties of a ranger and needs for national parks, and were proudly presented with a Karijini Junior Ranger cloth badge, now sewn onto a favourite teddy.

With the morning slowly heating up we set off to climb down to Handrail Pool. As we clambered down the steep uneven steps we reinforced to the kids the need for care as there have been deaths and many accidents requiring airlifting out. At the bottom of the gorge we followed the guidance dots which were attached to rocks every 5 - 10 metres. Suddenly we approached a water hole, wading through it's freezing water, the only way to continue on the path. Gingerly we entered, trying to find the shallowest spots. Thankful for the sun beating down at the other side we continued on, climbing over rocks, and tree stumps with the red walls of the gorge towering above either side of us. As we approach the next narrowing with a jaggered rock walk and water beneath, Josh, Nick, Abbey and Zach chose to climb the rock while Matt and I chose the less labour intensive but colder option of swimming. It was a fun and exciting climb to the top of Hand rail Pool.

Looking down into the pool from the where we were standing in the slippery waterfall above I did feel somewhat anxious about climbing down the slippery rock with just a handrail to cling onto. With a lump in my throat I shakily climbed down after the rest of the family, surprising myself that it wasn't as bad as it looked. We were amazed at the natural beauty of this pool, everyone (except me) having a dip in the fresh but freezing water. It was a beautiful spot to enjoy a picnic lunch. Matt, Josh and Nick swam and climbed further down until the warning of Class 6 signs prevented them from going further, while Abbey and Zach tried to warm their shivering bodies on the rock. We enjoyed the track back looking forward to the thrill of climbing the next gorge.

The Amphitheater was the next to be explored. Again climbing down the steep walls of the gorge, but now wet as well, we reached a two stage ladder. Single file we climbed down to the gorge floor, and followed the now familiar disks on the rocks. We must have been acclimatizing to the water as each time we entered it seemed less cold than the one before. The kids quickly tired of Nick's continual "Dad" jokes about this being "GORGE"ous. Even though around each bend there were some amazingly gorgeous sights all around us. We reached the Amphitheater and Matt enjoyed a sit in the pool with a waterfall pouring over his head. We could have continued to Kermit's Pool however the look of "Spider Walk" which seemed a little difficult for us all to climb, and Abbey shivering uncontrollably with cold, tearing up at the thought of more cold water we decided to head back.

Driving back to camp we all felt the need to find warm clothes and hot milo just to thaw ourselves out, although the thrill of the climbs and the beauty of the gorges far outweighed the discomfort of being cold.

Waking the following morning, still buzzing with adrenalin from yesterday's climbs we set off on the Circular Pool, Fortesque Falls, Fern Pool loop from our campsite. As we headed down the steep cliffs we could already see that this gorge was quite different but equally magnificent to Weano Gorge. We reached Circular Pool quickly, and Nick dived in to it's freezing water. Circular pool only gets a maximum of 15 minutes of sunlight each day. Matt and Josh also braved a quick dip.

Walking along the gorge floor, towards Fortesque Falls, was enjoyed by all. Sometimes we were able to run along the pebbled floor, while other times we climbed over boulders or jumped across stepping stones as we crossed over the river, all the while amazed at the debris, often high above us, left from the floods of the wet season.

WOW was the word of the day as we approached the falls. Walking up to the base of the pool the beauty of the waterfall against the red gorge walls was mouth dropping. Climbing to the top of the waterfall up the rock, which had its own natural steps, gave us an equally amazing view from the opposite end. Further down the path we came to Fern Pool. It's turquoise blue water with waterfall inviting us to swim. This was probably our favourite pool as it was surrounded by ferns and large fig trees whose roots clung to the rock walls. Swimming over to the water fall was relaxing, while sitting under the water fall a refreshing and massaging contrast. As we walked back up out of the gorge, I was saddened at the thought of the family whose husband had lost his life and son was severely injured as they walked down the stairs and slipped under the railing.