Monday 21 May 2012

I'd Like To Be, Under The Sea, In an Octopus' Garden

Driving into Tulki Camp at Cape Range National Park we were greeted by the camp hosts Pat and Barb, a lovely couple who enjoyed sharing their experiences and knowledge of the area, making all campers feel welcome with a daily "happy hour" at the picnic tables. A time for us all to share and learn. After a set up that seemed to drag on we explored the beach, finding areas to fish and admiring the turquoise colour of the water..

Each day we explored different areas of this magnificent National Park. Turquoise Bay was our first experience snorkelling here. The water full of spectacularly coloured fish, amazing corals and before long we spotted and swam with 5 turtles and saw a few reef sharks. "The Drift" was quite gentle and we gracefully floated over the magnificent aquarium below us. We came back here on another day and the "The Drift" was so strong it took us down the bay so quickly we couldn't enjoy it.

At Lakeside we were shown where to find a good spot to snorkel. We swam out to the spot where we thought it was, but only saw a few trigger fish and the odd school of spangled emperor - no coral or tropical fish. We later discovered we'd swum to far out, and on the next visit swam closer to shore and found awesome "bombies" (coral formations), fish, and some massive stingrays with a wingspan of about 2 metres and a tail that long again.

Oyster stacks were another snorkelling site which you can only go to at high tide as it is very rocky and shallow. Being so shallow meant that you felt as though you were a part of the underwater wonderland, not just simply observing it from a distance. Oyster stacks had coral and fish in abundance, by the time we finally got out of the water not only did we have wrinkly fingers but also wrinkly salty lips, which lingered in our mouths for hours later.

Pat and Barb (camp hosts) told us of a spot in the gorges where you could see the rare Black Footed Wallaby. To see them you needed to get there at dawn and be absolutely silent. I think Pat thought the kids wouldn't meet either if these requirements, so the challenge was set. It was decided that perhaps the silence would be better achieved if we went as separate families, so the Backsons went on the first morning, returning with amazement in their eyes at watching the wallabies hop and jump up the rocks and feed their Joeys. So the next morning we set off early with lengthy discussions along the way about not talking and creeping quietly. Hamish had told us to look out for the "Admiral" a wallaby at the entrance of the gorge on "lookout" for the others. Sure enough he was there watching us creep quietly through into the gorge. We didn't have to walk very far before we saw about 20 wallabies sitting on the rock ledges. Nick and Zach climbed up the rocks and saw many more tucked away on more rock ledges and caves. The kids watched in awe as these beautiful black footed wallabies with their gorgeous little striped faces interacted with eachother and hopped precariously on the steep boulders. We walked back to the car with a sense of achievement at being so quiet and excitement at seeing the wallabies, both of which the kids ran and told Pat about when back at camp.

Fishing at Tulki was semi successful. Matt caught a 60cm longtom, but because of they are so boney tossed it back, and Josh caught a decent sized pike which we made Thai fish cakes with.

Shiloh and Michelle popped in to say hi one morning and Shiloh was telling us about the Sharks he had been catching at Yardie Creek, so you can guess where Josh wanted to go.....after dinner one evening we cautiously drove the kangaroo covered road (where we saw over 300 in 15 minutes and managed to only hit one) down to Yardie Creek, and wandered down to the beach with fishing gear and torches in hand to try and catch a shark. Most of us spent the evening lying on our backs stargazing, spotting shooting stars and finding constellations, or walking along the beach with a torch catching ghost crabs, while Josh fished. About an hour later Shiloh had hooked a 3 foot reef shark. He pulled it in & we crowded round to watch as he bled it, and chopped the head and fins off. Kindly Shiloh gave us the shark, and we enjoyed a very nice meal of crumbed fish and chips with the Backsons.

Matt has a school project this term, and he has decided to research "Birds of Western Australia" so a visit to the bird hide was a must. Sitting in the hide we watched a white bellied sea eagle swoop and catch fish from the lagoon, and a number of Egrets walking through the mangroves with their long spindly legs. Bird life in the park was abundant. An osprey had a nest at the information centre, birds of prey would circle above road kill, little wrens flitted amongst the shrubs and the occassional Bustard would wander across the road. At the only water tap in the park 3 Emus gathered around drinking from the small pool of water beneath. Nick had to keep shooing them away as he filled the water containers, keeping the rest of us, in the car, amused. On our last morning a male emu and 2 of his growing chicks wandered towards the beach. Pat suggested to Matt to follow them from a distance. From the sand dune Matt and Abbey watched as they entered the water, swimming along. Matt described them as "looking like giant swans swimming down the beach". A very rare and special sight for them to see.

The biggest highlight of our stay here was having the opportunity to swim with whale sharks, but that deserves a blog update of its own.

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