Friday 14 September 2012

KakaDU or KakaDON'T ????

Perceptions by people of places is such a funny thing. As we journeyed around Australia a greater number of people we met told us Kakadu was overrated and could easily be missed.

Having the flexibility of being able to travel with mum and the campervan
We set off on a 6 day trip to Kakadu & Litchfield National Parks. The first day was spent packing and driving there, stopping along the way to visit the Window on the Wetlands centre and the visitors centre to buy a Park Pass.

By the time we reached our first campsite - Malabanjbanjdju - it was dusk, we quickly found a campsite overlooking a beautiful billabong full of Waterlillies and bird life galore. The only problem was the swarms of Mosquitos. Having seen numerous posters about the mosquito borne diseases it was somewhat disconcerting the sheer number of these insects and our inability to stop them biting us. Once set up and dinner cooked we watched the birds around the billabong. We saw a jabiru which caused great excitement. I turned my back momentarily and heard an almighty snap and as I turned back saw a huge splash on the other side of the river. It was a crocodile!!!!! Hmmm there are signs around warning of the possibility of crocs but we were a little blasé about it until that moment. We even felt a bit insecure camping so close to the billabong. Later that night we went down to the waters edge (again a bit to blasé) with spot lights and identified quite a few sets of eyes on the billabong near by.

As dawn broke it was a beautiful sight we awoke to as we looked across to the billabong. The sun catching the water as birds wadded in the shallows. A truely serene moment. We headed off and stopped in at the Bowali Visitors Centre. While the kids dragged
grandma from one display after another (a little to quickly for her liking) Nick and I wandered at leisure. Nick recognized the father of a boy he had coached basketball at Eltham wildcats 12 years ago - we stopped, chatted and caught up on their lives, laughing at how funny it was to see eachother 12 years later In the Northern Territory.

We took a drive up to East Alligator River. In the car park we passed a guy carrying a freshly caught barramundi who claimed to have caught it after 3 casts. That was it, Josh was already rigging up his line and heading towards the river at a great pace. By the time the rest of us had caught up to him Josh had already started fishing on the edge of the causeway. Immediately we spotted a croc on the opposite bank and 2 swimming just metres away, so with more parental advice than Josh would have liked he relented and stood further away from the edge of the water. Well it wasn't 3 or 4 casts later, but it didn't take long before Josh had caught his first Barramundi and it was 65cm so we could keep it. There was excitement all round, and while Josh and Matt tried to catch another, unsuccessfully, I went and scaled and filleted the fish.

Kakadu offers quite a few free guided walks and activities. The one which interested me most was basket weaving. At Merl Camping Ground we
found a ranger and 2 indigenous women demonstrating how to prepare the pandanus leaves for weaving, the dying process and how to make a simple bracelet. We all enjoyed this activity, Zach sitting watching the women weave a large basket, while the rest of us tried making bracelets. Matt's patience paying off, making me a beautiful yellow dyed pandanus bracelet - which we saw an identical one later in a gift shop for $20.

After lunch we headed over to Ubirr. An amazing rock formation with rock art displays. Some of the paintings still so clear even though they are many many years old. As we followed the paths along toward the rock we talked about the traditions and beliefs of the Indiginous people. Once we had climbed to the top of Ubirr a magnificent 360 degree view greeted us. Even though there was a bit of burning off the views over Kakadu were breathtaking. It was easy to understand why this was a sacred place, a place to think, and a place to meditate. Unfortunately we had to hurry back to the car as we were booked on a Yellow Waters Billabong sunset tour, which we only just made with minutes to spare.

Yellow Waters sunset billabong tour was beautiful. Four full boats headed out in different directions. Our guide - Shelton, talked about the history of the area as well as pointing out birds and crocs along the way. Within minutes Matt found the courage to start calling out birds he'd spot. Much to Sheltons amazement, Matt was spotting birds before him, and identifying them correctly most of the time. I think Matt has found his dream job. As we drifted past lotus flowers, ducks, crocs and the occasional wild boar along the billabong the sun slowly set. The tranquility and peacefulness of still water, Jesus birds (or a comb crested jacana to be precise) treading lightly across Waterlillies and a flock of little egrets taking flight across the setting sun was a perfect way to end a second day in Kakadu. Thanks mum for your generous once in a life time gift.

On our final full day in Kakadu we visited Nouralangie Rock. We followed the paths up and around sheltered rock areas covered in spectacular rock art, then up a bush track to view the magnificent Nouralangie Rock, an area of great significance to the local people. From here we drove down a rough track to Jim Jim billabong for lunch, then set up camp at Merl Camp ground. Josh was eager to try Barra fishing again at the nearby East Alligator River. We were able to walk here along a sandy track with rock formations very similar to those we saw at "The Lost City" in Litchfield. Unfortunately Josh lost his lure (which grandma had bought him) on his second cast, getting it snagged. He could not see why we would not let him wade in the water to get it, even though there were numerous crocs swimming metres away, Josh seriously thinking WE were being unreasonable.

As we headed out of Kakadu National Park, I can most definately say that we loved our time here, apart from the mozzies, and could easily spend more time here if time permitted.

1 comment: