Shells Shells and More Shells

Leaving the "gorgeous" beauty of Karijini behind us we headed towards Port Hedland. Surprisingly we got away early again and the kids seemed to have worked out the routine of a long haul, which includes spreads on dry biscuits and a juice box for breakfast, a rest before attacking some homework, a niggle or two about who is going to watch a DVD on the one and only remaining working DVD, which ends up being confiscated if the niggling gets too loud.

We pulled into Port Hedland amazed at the lack of things to see and do. Granted it does have a huge port, but apart from a Woolworths and a couple of dodgy cafes that was it. After stocking up for the next 10 days we headed off in the direction of 80 Mile Beach. After a long (8hr) drive in total we arrived. I had been told by a grey nomad, back in Esperence, that 80 Mile was a must for the kids as there were great shells to be found on the beach. Not just your every day shells but the big ones you see in shops.

The Backsons had arrived here a couple of days earlier, and sure enough there were great shells to be found. As well as the shells Oli, Ned and Ivy shared great stories about some of the "locals" (people who live here for 4-6 months a year) who make awesome animals from the shells. Matt, Zach and Abbey could hardly wait for the morning to come to set off and explore and meet the locals too. Mark and Lauren were also here and gave us a bag of their reject shells, which I thought looked pretty good. Abbey enjoyed playing and wandering around the park with Jayde before they set off further North. Nick took advantage of Marks tools and knick knacks and helped to patch the tent.

We'd heard that the "better" shells we 5-10km up the beach, which if we had a 4wd would be no worries. Thoughtfully Hamish drove us 5km down and we could walk back. Combing the beach we found some beautiful shells, corals, drift wood, my favourite - star urchins and even a sea snake. Although a 5km walk doesn't usually take too long, when you're combing the beach it's amazing how long it can take. Dusk had fallen and it was almost dark when a lone car came past. We all climbed in, Abbey sitting on the lady's lap, Nick stood on one footplate while Oli and I stood on the other and Matt, Zach and Ned were hoisted up into the rear which was like a workman's ute with locked sides. Everyone thought it was a bit of an adventure, together with our buckets full of precious finds.

Abbey made friends with most of the caravan park, which was predominantly over the age of sixty. I went to the toilets and was chatting to the cleaner about "my daughter" when another lady walked past and said "do you mean Abbey". The lady laughed and told me that Abbey had told her all about her family and what we were doing, graciously telling me she needed a grandchild fix as she wouldn't see hers for 6 months and she enjoyed Abbeys chats.

The Kids met Keith who made the little animals and wind chimes with shells. One afternoon Keith patiently made each of the kids (ours and the Backson kids) a shell animal each. The kids sat in his annex watching eagerly as Keith opened various boxes with shells of all shapes and sizes, keenly trying to remember the way he made them so they could replicate the animals with their own collection of shells.

Josh tried his hand at fishing but apart from a catfish had no luck. He did befriend a guy while he was fishing who later presented Josh with a surf rod and reel, which Josh was shocked and appreciative of his generosity.

Matt, Zach and Abbey befriended Ranger Pete, who took them on a quad bike ride along the beach, showed them photos of a crocodile he had caught (instantly giving him hero status in Zach's eyes), gave them each a large trumpet shell and star fish and let the kids help him around the park. Hopefully we'll catch up with Pete and his wife in Darwin when they have finished the season at 80 Mile Beach.

With the wind not easing up we decided to head to Barn Hill Station a couple of hundred km North.

Shells Shells and More Shells

Leaving the "gorgeous" beauty of Karijini behind us we headed towards Port Hedland. Surprisingly we got away early again and the kids seemed to have worked out the routine of a long haul, which includes spreads on dry biscuits and a juice box for breakfast, a rest before attacking some homework, a niggle or two about who is going to watch a DVD on the one and only remaining working DVD, which ends up being confiscated if the niggling gets too loud.

We pulled into Port Hedland amazed at the lack of things to see and do. Granted it does have a huge port, but apart from a Woolworths and a couple of dodgy cafes that was it. After stocking up for the next 10 days we headed off in the direction of 80 Mile Beach. After a long (8hr) drive in total we arrived. I had been told by a grey nomad, back in Esperence, that 80 Mile was a must for the kids as there were great shells to be found on the beach. Not just your every day shells but the big ones you see in shops.

The Backsons had arrived here a couple of days earlier, and sure enough there were great shells to be found. As well as the shells Oli, Ned and Ivy shared great stories about some of the "locals" (people who live here for 4-6 months a year) who make awesome animals from the shells. Matt, Zach and Abbey could hardly wait for the morning to come to set off and explore and meet the locals too. Mark and Lauren were also here and gave us a bag of their reject shells, which I thought looked pretty good. Abbey enjoyed playing and wandering around the park with Jayde before they set off further North. Nick took advantage of Marks tools and knick knacks and helped to patch the tent.

We'd heard that the "better" shells we 5-10km up the beach, which if we had a 4wd would be no worries. Thoughtfully Hamish drove us 5km down and we could walk back. Combing the beach we found some beautiful shells, corals, drift wood, my favourite - star urchins and even a sea snake. Although a 5km walk doesn't usually take too long, when you're combing the beach it's amazing how long it can take. Dusk had fallen and it was almost dark when a lone car came past. We all climbed in, Abbey sitting on the lady's lap, Nick stood on one footplate while Oli and I stood on the other and Matt, Zach and Ned were hoisted up into the rear which was like a workman's ute with locked sides. Everyone thought it was a bit of an adventure, together with our buckets full of precious finds.

Abbey made friends with most of the caravan park, which was predominantly over the age of sixty. I went to the toilets and was chatting to the cleaner about "my daughter" when another lady walked past and said "do you mean Abbey". The lady laughed and told me that Abbey had told her all about her family and what we were doing, graciously telling me she needed a grandchild fix as she wouldn't see hers for 6 months and she enjoyed Abbeys chats.

The Kids met Keith who made the little animals and wind chimes with shells. One afternoon Keith patiently made each of the kids (ours and the Backson kids) a shell animal each. The kids sat in his annex watching eagerly as Keith opened various boxes with shells of all shapes and sizes, keenly trying to remember the way he made them so they could replicate the animals with their own collection of shells.

Josh tried his hand at fishing but apart from a catfish had no luck. He did befriend a guy while he was fishing who later presented Josh with a surf rod and reel, which Josh was shocked and appreciative of his generosity.

Matt, Zach and Abbey befriended Ranger Pete, who took them on a quad bike ride along the beach, showed them photos of a crocodile he had caught (instantly giving him hero status in Zach's eyes), gave them each a large trumpet shell and star fish and let the kids help him around the park. Hopefully we'll catch up with Pete and his wife in Darwin when they have finished the season at 80 Mile Beach.

With the wind not easing up we decided to head to Barn Hill Station a couple of hundred km North.

Karratha .......Digs, Dongas and Dogs.

In the still of the morning Nick & I packed the remaining few bits into the van while the kids sat sleepily in the car. We knew we had a long haul ahead of us so packed most things the night before, and got up early (6am) to complete the pack and get away early. Hamish and Sara who got up 1/2 an hour later than us, but have the advantage of being able to just shut their caravan door and head off were even surprised at our start, and for the first time since traveling together we managed to get away first, much to Oliver's competitive disgust. The Backsons are heading off to Karijini while we head off to Dampier / Karratha. Hopefully we'll catch up again in a few weeks time.

The 7 hour trip was surprisingly uneventful. The kids all got stuck into homework, the scenery changed frequently from grassy plains with tall termite mounds to amazing rock formations. As we got closer to Karratha we passed mining car after mining car, although we were still to discover the magnitude of mining in this town.

After checking out the Dampier Transit Park we decided to keep driving to Point Sampson, a quiet but expensive caravan park.

Roebourne Gaol was an interesting place, originally used for aboriginals, later used for white people as well. Closing in 1985 the gaol was only built to house 14 prisoners but at times frequently held 90.

Cossack, a ghost town with restored buildings from a bustling pearling village, Complete with a courthouse, jail, stores, cemetery, hotel, postoffice and port was a great spot to wander around, all for a gold coin donation. It was very uncommercialised, but thoughtfully restored, we had a fun day exploring and imagining a life long gone.





Red dog's statue was on the itinerary today. The kids quite excited to see the area where Red dog lived, and his memorial. Out at Dampier, which was a fairly run down town with security grills on every window we found Red Dog, took the obligatory photos, then went out to the North West Information Centre
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Here we all learnt about the gas rigs. The kids filled out an information sheet in return for a prize of a drink bottle at the end. Some of the things learnt were: there are 4 things - LNG, LPG, condensate and H2O drilled out of the gas plant, there are 4 big rigs off the shore of Dampier, the 7 ships are named after migratory birds which fly between Australia and Asia, and the gas from here supplies 65% of Western Australia's gas supply.

Driving through the towns dongas sprawled on the outskirts, some more inviting than others, all of which looked small and cramped, and if you could afford a house (rental for a small 3 bedroom home $1000) one could see the temptation of working at the mines and gas plant as the money earnt was evident, Josh envying the size of the boats in just about drive.

Upon reflection we all thought that Karratha was like a suburb (perhaps Fountain Gate) taken from a city and dumped in the middle of nowhere.

Although this town was a fascinating insight into the mining industry we are all looking forward to heading back out to a National Park..

Swimming With The Biggest Fish In The Sea

Finally the day has come..... When we left Melbourne we had worked out we would be in Exmouth during the season when whale sharks are there. What an amazing experience that would be - albeit a costly one, we decided to build the cost of a tour into our ever growing budget. We researched which company to book with, and in Esperance (back in March) booked with Eco Adventure Tours. Marni one of the owners offered an exceptional customer service in relation to our queries and questions, and even gave us some great tips about places to see on the way up the coast

With anticipation growing we (along with the Backsons) hypothesized whether we would: see whale sharks (there had been a few days when they weren't seen - guess it's not a zoo so it can't be guaranteed), if it would be calm, whether we'd need sea sickness tablets, if there would be enough food for the kids, what the seafood they advertised would be, and if the kids would be able to keep up and swim with the whale shark. What if, what if...

Mothers Day 13th May 2012 - dawn broke, not a cloud in the sky or a single breath of wind could be felt, how perfect. After a quick breakfast, and the presentation of some artistic cards we drove to Tantabilli boat ramp to meet the crew. We watched as 6 other companies headed out, waiting for Eco Adventures to arrive, all of us edgy with excitement and apprehension.

Many keen eyes were keeping watch on the road to see if the bus was coming, with squeals of delight when it was finally spotted.

After introductions with the crew and others doing the tour we were ferried out to the boat on a zodiac. The kids thinking this would be a perfect little boat for us to buy - like we have a spare $2k and for that matter room for a tinny or zodiac. On board we were fitted out with our snorkel, flippers and wetsuits, along with a rundown of the safety requirements and the days itinery. The younger kids were super excited at the prospect of being "allowed" 2 cans of soft drink and bottomless glasses of cordial on offer.


As the spotter plane set off in search of a whale shark we jumped in for a snorkel. The size of the bombies were incredible. One of the staff, Dave, took Abbey over a coral garden and showed her a group of clown fish. She quickly lifted her head out of the water, pulled off her mask and yelled excitedly "I've seen Nemo". As we swam back to the boat (a bit of a test to make sure you can actually swim) a couple of large reef sharks were spotted, and videoed by the videographer. I'm sure that if it had been any other shark swimming nearby we would have been quite anxious. Back on board, while having warm Turkish bread and dukkah, we waited for the skipper to confirm a whale shark sighting. A few had been seen surfacing but diving straight back down. "Got one" yelled Ken, the skipper, and suddenly the boat took off full throttle in the direction of the plane.

Again we had a quick run through of the protocol of swimming with the shark, and before we knew it group 1 was told to get in the water. Group 2, comprising of us and the Backsons, lined up on the back waiting for our signal to jump.
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"GO" in we slid, searching for the group leader Rachel, in amongst the flippers and bubbles, all the time trying to spot the whale shark. Through the blueness of the water a 3-4 metre whale shark swam effortlessly passed us. Dumbfounded by the size and beauty, it was a moment before we all kicked fervently, swimming freestyle to try and keep up with this wonder of the deep. As it slowly swam down into the dark depths of the water leaving us dog paddling in the middle of the ocean, adrenalin pumping through our bodies after the sight we've just seen. Back on the boat, Ken was told of another bigger whale shark nearby. Off we went in its pursuit.

In all we swam 5 times with three different whale sharks and saw one surface beside the boat, which thrilled Abbey as she wasn't able to swim with them. With each swim the excitement grew and the realization of such a special moment was embraced, all the while I was trying to catch a few photos on the camera to cement the memories in our minds forever.







Before we knew it, it was 2:30pm, and feeling quite peckish after our swims. As we cruised back into the reef area, we were treated to a gourmet lunch of cold meats, a variety of salads, prawns and smoked salmon. A spread which far exceeded our expectations, and certainly filled the kids stomachs as well as our own.










To finish the cruise we went for a second snorkel over a coral bombie which was perfect for diving down and around through crevices, and spotting a stingray, and schools of fish.

       

All too soon we were back at Tantabilli boat ramp, wishing we could go back out and do it all again.



Jo & Pete, who had done a tour at Coral Bay, suggested having a meal prepared for tea as we would be too tired to cook. I'm glad we were able to just heat up our meal, and sit together recalling the day and our experiences.

Although Matt got a little sea sick, and Abbey had to stay on board and help Dave and Ken in the cabin while we swam, we ALL thought it was simply "the BEST day ever". What a Mothers Day to remember.